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The oldest known form of carpet was a fresco of handloom discovered in Egypt in 1953. It dates from 1480 BC. In 1960, frozen in ice in a Mongolian tomb, a Pazyryck woven rug was discovered. Containing warp and weft fibers and ghiordes knots, dating to 480 BC, it was very similar to the Persian rugs that are so valued today.

In the United States carpet making is only a little over 200 years old. The first carpet mill is credited to William Sprague of Philadelphia who opened a plant in 1791. In the early 1800s several other woven carpet plants sprang up in New England and the Middle Atlantic states. One such plant that operated in Little Falls, New Jersey until 1979 was the Beattie Manufacturing Company.

In 1839 a gentleman named Erastus Bigelow reinvented the woven carpet industry with the invention of the power loom, doubling the production of carpet in the first year. His brother Horatio created the company that produced it. They called it the Clinton Company after the DeWitt Clinton Hotel for which they had a great fondness. By 1850 their production had tripled. In 1845 they opened a second plant, around Erastus’ newly patented loom that produced gingham, a very popular brightly colored fabric of the time. The town was renamed Clintonville and grew tremendously, adding a large population of eager workers and shop keepers. Rails were laid and Clintonville was a boom town.

Erastus’ thirst for innovation continued and gained him 35 different patents. In 1877 he introduced the first broadloom carpet that we still know today.

The Jacquard mechanism was first developed in 1849 and the Clinton Company of Massachusetts began to produce Brussels carpet. The power loom was then modified slightly to produce Wilton carpet. Eventually the Clinton Company merged with the Hartford Company to form the Bigelow Company.

The Bigelow Company produced the worlds finest carpets from 1849 to 1933 being installed in many prestigious locations including the Whitehouse, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Titanic.

Horatio died in 1868 and his brother Erastus followed in 1879.

Bigelow is still a quality manufacturer of fine broadloom today. If you are lucky enough to own an antique or vintage Bigelow carpet, be proud of it as a piece of real Americana and get it cleaned and preserved regularly by a Tampa carpet cleaning professional.

Carpet doctor has served the Tampa bay area for 14 years offering quality carpet cleaning at a reasonable price. visit us at http://www.carpetdoctorinc.com

Choosing a rug is important as it is the baseline for the appearance of your rooms and house. But it’s also something we do so infrequently that we tend to have little or no experience doing it. Just walking into a carpet store or showroom can be totally overwhelming. I know, as I tried and even with a helpful salesperson, I was just overwhelmed. Looking online was a little less frenetic and frantic, but yielded similar results of total overload. Here is what you should do before you start looking to avoid this problem.

First, measure your space, whether a room, stair case, or hall way. This will certainly cut down on your options and this is exactly what you want to do. Also, think about budget. You can get ideas of prices if clueless like I was by looking casually online. There is no sense in looking at high end modern rugs or antique Oriental rugs if they are not in your budget.

Once you have an idea of size and budget, consider how bright the area is where it will go. This may not be an issue but it often is. In a brightly lit area you have more options than in a darker area where dark patterns will not show well. You also may want a lighter carpet to help “lighten up” a dark space. Now you can start looking at carpets. I like to bring pictures of where it will go when shopping in a brick and mortar store, and I’ll bring a laptop into the actual room if shopping online. Even if not comfortable choosing one online it can be helpful to get an idea of what you like and what’s available.

In general, you don’t want one that matches your main colors of decor and that can be overwhelming. Also rugs fade and if in time it looks almost the same color but not quite as the walls for example, the effect is bizarre. Choosing secondary accent colors that match some of the colors in the rug work extremely well as they make it an integrating and unifying element.

Of course what is most important is that it is something that you like. The advice above may or may not apply as there are no absolute rules. Above all, take your time. Ask others for their input. And relax, as there is not only one right choice, but plenty of excellent choices.

For more related information, visit Stair Tread Rugs and Choosing a Stair Carpet Runner.

The patio should be a place where you can connect with the nature without having to leave the comfort of your own home. This is why it is better to choose natural materials to decorate it. Limestone tiles or marble ones are widely used because they come in a great variety of colors and designs. You can create a masterpiece in your own patio that you will get to enjoy every day. After all, we spend a great deal of time there even if we don’t realize it. We can get out of the house into a beautifully decorated yard to have coffee in the morning, or even lunch. Patios are excellent for a barbeque party, or even a stylish evening reunion with friends or colleagues.

Tiles are definitely an excellent choice for a patio. They are suitable for many reasons; this is why they are widely used. It is not enough to have your house fabulously decorated, if it is surrounded by a yard that isn’t taken care of. First of all they look fantastic. You can create fabulous mosaic tiles designs and your patio will be admired by all the guests. Most of the people prefer a rustic yard, so limestone tiles are really suitable to help creating this look.

Looks aren’t everything. One has to see the practical aspects of choosing tiles too. Because we are referring to an outdoor space, weather conditions can influence a great deal the materials used to cover the ground. There are several types of tiles that are specially designed for outside use because they are very resistant to high temperatures, to water and even to snow and ice. This way you won’t have to replace them all the time. Even pyramids were built using limestone and they lasted until nowadays, facing the extreme desert temperatures.

The patio is an area of high traffic, where dirt can be brought on shoes, or where one can drop a hot coal while having a barbeque party. Tiles are generally resistant to water, fire and mud. Another type of flooring would have been totally damaged in the case of such an accident. Using tiles can save you a lot of work and definitely a lot of money. The investment might seem a little big in the beginning, but not having to worry about maintaining them, or replacing the broken pieces can be a real advantage.

In what concerns cleaning, tiles that are suitable for outdoor use need almost no maintenance at all. They can be washed and swept without any problems at all. Still, there are some types of tiles that detergents can damage, but those are not recommended by professionals for outdoor use.

The beige and honey limestone tiles are wonderful, extremely practical and they also offer the warm feeling that almost all homeowners are looking for.

Flooring must be tough and durable. Homeowners use many different wood, stone and tile materials to create floors that will stand up to traffic, furniture and time. One very hard, durable and beautiful material to create unique flooring is strand woven bamboo flooring. This flooring is actually even tougher than flooring celebrated for its durability such as hickory, cherry and oak wood flooring. Bamboo has the strength for many uses such as furniture, and becomes even harder and more durable when put through a special manufacturing process that creates strand woven bamboo. The process doubles the hardness and strength of the bamboo.

There are many species of bamboo. The specie that produces the right material to make planks for strand woven bamboo floors is called Moso. The process involves cutting the bamboo plant into strips. Next the plant is boiled, which removes any sugary plant substance that could attract termites, making the bamboo planks virtually termite-proof. The boiled-bamboo strands are allowed to dry and then put under high pressure. The pressure, combined with a special adhesive, flattens the strands and molds them together into planks.

The end product is a very dense plank that is perfect for use as flooring that must endure heavy traffic and the challenges of furniture, pets and children. The appearance is unique, creating a natura, lovely and unusual wood effect that comes in a fine variety of wood hues to coordinate with any decor. Bamboo flooring is a much more environmentally-responsible wood choice. Bamboo grows rapidly, unlike trees. Bamboo cultivation is common world-wide for its many uses and does not require any deforestation in order to create a wide variety of products from flooring to furniture.

Installation of strand-woven bamboo flooring is similar to other kinds of wood flooring. Installers can either apply it directly on an asphalt floor using glue, staples or nails. Another type of installation is “floating” which makes it feasible to install the bamboo planks anywhere regardless of the floor’s foundation or the floor’s structure. Strand woven bamboo floors are an excellent choice when remodeling a home because of the ease of installation as well as the beauty and durability that will provide years of service.

A strand woven bamboo is a excellent choice when remodeling a home because of the ease of installation as well as the beauty and durability. bamboo floors will also provide you years of service.

There are so many types of area rugs that it can sometimes throw you for a loop trying to choose one; so, how do you know which styles fits you and your home? This article contains helpful ideas to think about when deciding on an area rug for the home.

Before even starting on the decision making aspect of choosing a rug you must determine the amount of traffic the location of the rug will get.

If the location gets high traffic it is likely that the rug will get worn down quickly so the best choice for that type of area would be one of higher quality and durability. If you are deciding on a low-traffic area you can choose a rug that is more your style without having to worry too much about the quality of the rug.

Ask yourself, “Is the rug going to be the focal point of the room?” If the rug is going to be the focal point of the room, choose a rug that has a design or pattern on it in order to call attention. If you are going for a simple rug that will just sit in the background, then choose on that is plain in either color or design.

There are other things you have to take into consideration if you have pets or children. Having pets means that they can really do damage to the area rug, especially if they decide to make it their home. Pets and children mean that you should probably think about stain resistant rugs.

Make sure to determine your budget before you even begin the process of shopping for a rug. Rugs also have a huge variety when it comes to price ranges, and it wouldn’t be good to overspend on a simple area rug. If you are looking for a nice rug that doesn’t cost too much, you can find them in the $50 range; however, a high quality area rug will cost you about a few thousand dollars.
If your budget is limited, you should consider choosing a synthetic area rug. Fibers that are punched through the rug, instead of hand-knotted, usually give off a synthetic rug; you can find this on the back of the rug.

Though you probably will not get the quality of a wool rug when buying a synthetic one, you will definitely save money on them. If you need to replace your rugs every other year, you can do so, and have a new style, without having to spend too much money.

Determining how large the rug will be is important, and you should make sure to leave room between the rug and walls. The last thing you want is an area rug that extends right room’s walls. Your rug should have space between itself and the walls instead.

You can ensure that you will keep even borders around the walls of the room, and have enough space for the chairs if you follow this advice.

As long as you know what to look for and, how to pick out the perfect rug for your home,  an area rug can really be a great addition to your home.

Avo Barsoumian has been part of the interior design and interior flooring community for the past 25 years. He is the owner and manager of a popular flooring installation company in Glendale. The offer the largest selection of elegant hardwood flooring, beautiful laminate flooring and plush carpeting under one roof. It doesn’t matter whether your searching for laminate floor for your new home or office carpet to remodelupdate your older home then Carpet Wagon has exactly what you’re looking for.

Epoxy floor coatings are the answer to your fading concrete floor paints. There are a lot of old homes nowadays that are in need of a major upgrade when it comes to floor conditions. Some of these floors have sustained a lot of damage over the years of wear and tear.

Let us take into consideration the conditions of garage floors at some of the old houses. The floor might have been damaged over the years. Epoxy floor coatings are composed of an odor free resin and a hardener which is great for garage, industrial, basement, and office flooring. When these two epoxy components are mixed together it will make it durable for a longer period of time compared to ordinary floor coatings.

There are a lot of advantages in using epoxy as a floor coating. Its durability and reliability can endure damages and still maintain its appearance. The good thing about this type of coating is that you can mix it according to your needs. You can just a light mixture for a surface that needs a light coat only. If in need for a more durable mixture, then one can easily adjust it and have the mixture that they want. It can also be adjusted to adapt to the climate in your area. You can have any color that you want that can blend well with your house color scheme.

There are a lot of individuals who are kind of hesitant when it comes to using epoxy floor paint. This is due to the term epoxy and how it is termed as a harmful chemical. If you really research about epoxy you will find out that it is quite resilient when it comes to solvents, salty environment, and gas spills. That is why most homes that are hear the shore usually uses epoxy floor paints.

There are a lot of epoxy floor paints that can be bought from hardware stores but most of these just have some instructions on how to mix it. That is why before purchasing it, make sure that you know how to do it or much better one should ask for assistance. Another idea is to have it mixed so that you can just apply it on the floor.

Just try to remember in your purchase of epoxy floor coatings, you have to be specific of what you really need. This will lessen any wastage and save you money. Make sure that you know how to mix it. If not, it is wise to have a professional do it.

If you need more epoxy flooring tips then check out this excellent site for Epoxy Floor Coatings site or if you are looking for garage floor advice then this Epoxy Garage Floor coating site might be just what you need.

If you’ve ever used a tile breaker before, you know what I’m talking about already. If however, you haven’t, you’re now in for a little lesson on speeding up your tiling job, while getting the same professional look you want. Most of the time, you will only want to use a tile breaker when working with ceramic tile. Other tile doesn’t work very well with breakers, the reason for that, is ceramic is simply clay with a glaze coating on top. Cut through the coating, and all you have left is clay – SNAP!

Snap is what you will hear when you break through the tile with the tile breaker, some people even call them tile snappers. Some companies will call them tile cutters, they all do the same thing. So, do you spend $20 on a breaker, or $120? This depends if you’re going to be doing a lot of tiling or just 1 or two jobs. You can make a $20 breaker act like a $120 one, simply by replacing the scoring wheel with a newer, more expensive one. Spraying the gliding bars with a lubricant like WD40 allows the handle to slide back and forth a lot easier as the $120 breaker has ball bearings to help it slide easy.

Now that you have a tile breaker, and tile in hand, let’s get down to learning how to use it! First, pull the handle back so the wheel is at the front of the tile breaker, closest to you. Take a tile and place it underneath the gliding bars and push it up to the back fence on the breaker so it’s flat against it. If you already have a mark on the tile to be snapped, line the cutting wheel up to it, being careful not to touch the tile yet. Make sure you push the tile up against the back fence again if you had to move the tile.

Now bring the wheel up to the tile, while holding the handle. Once the wheel touches the tile put a small amount of pressure down with the bar, allowing the cutting wheel to rest on the tile. With the same amount of pressure, gently push the handle away from you to the top of the tile. You should be hearing a sizzling noise as the wheel cuts into the tile glaze. Finish the “scoring” all the way up and off the tile, don’t stop at the end.

So you’ve just scored the glaze on the tile, much like a glass cutter works. Now we have to break the tile. Bring the handle back about 1-2 inches until the breaker pad (the pad that’s in front of the wheel), to rest on the tile. Make sure the wheel is not touching the tile. Give the bar a quick downward shove, or if you wish, you can also put constant pressure on the bar and give it a quick downward push. This should break the tile down your line you just scored, if it doesn’t, try pushing down again. If after 3 tries, the tile still doesn’t break, take it out and start again. NEVER try to re-score the tile as this will surely damage your new wheel.

Once you get the hang of using a tile breaker, you’ll wonder how you ever did without it. Have fun and happy breaking!

Matt spent almost 3 years to perfect his book “A Unique Step-By-Step Guide: Making Floor Tiling Easier”. He wanted to make it as accessible as possible for people of all varying degrees of experience. From 1st time beginner, to the veteran that’s been tiling for years, this book covers everything necessary to learn floor tiling, with many shortcuts and pro tips that make the job faster and easier.

For an opportunity to either purchase the book, or receive a Free DVD on floor tiling, go to http://www.SeilingsFloors.com. Click on the FREE DVD, to discover the special promotion he has to offer.

If you follow the steps to floor tiling which I have mentioned in previous articles on the topic of floor tile laying, you will find that I have explained the process in a detailed manner regarding all aspects. However, as a summary to these articles, I will explain in brief the process with which you can speed up the whole operation of laying floor tiles. Instead of following the steps which I gave to laying a single floor tile at a time, which if followed would actually seem to take forever, I will give you an idea into laying several tiles all at once, which is the actually correct way to lay floor tiles to prevent your mortar mix from drying out before it becomes useless and solidifies.

First of all, scoop out a sufficient enough amount of mixed floor tile mortar to say, cover an area of approximately three 12″ inch ceramic floor tiles in a straight line, for example. Spread this out gently and evenly with the flat edge of your notched trowel, remembering not to cover your chalk lines or any important pencil marks. This is known as keying-in, which ensures that your subfloor is completely covered with mortar, and there is a good bond forming between the two.

Once you have it keyed-in to an approximate mortar bed depth of between 1/2″ to 3/4″ inch the length of three tiles, you then take either of the short or long cut-out edges of your 3/8″ by 1/4″ inch notched trowel, depending on your preference of spreading or access to the area, and set to the edge of the mortar bed. Holding the trowel at an approximate 45 degree angle, scrape the trowel through the mortar for the full length of the bed in straight lines, constantly maintaining downward pressure. At the end of each scrape, tilt and wipe the excess mortar from the trowel leaving a mound at the end for later use.

You should now have an area of mortar large enough for three floor tiles, which resembles something similar to a farmer’s ploughed field. Take one tile; butt the edge gently next to an adjacent floor tile keeping the same alignment, and drop the tile down gently. With downward pressure using your fingertips, pull the tile away slightly from the adjacent floor tile to create a gap for grout spacing, and gently push and twist the tile firmly into the mortar bed.

Insert your 3/16″ or 1/4″ inch tile grout spacers between all neighboring edges with two spacers to an edge, and then gently push the tile tight towards the edges which should clamp your grout spacers in place. Make sure that your alignment and level is correct, double-check the existing tile alignment so that it hasn’t moved, then continue these steps with the laying of the second and third tiles.

When all three floor tiles are laid into place surrounded by grout spacers on all edges which meet, check the alignment, double-check the alignment, and then go back to check the alignment on tiles laid previously. That I can’t stress more than enough. Take a tile spacer and run it down the length of the grout lines removing any excess mortar as you go, and be sure to wipe off any spots of mortar from the tile surfaces and edges in the process, and then check the alignment once again.

That is basically all there is to it. So once you master laying one tile, build yourself to two, then three, or four tile sections. Whichever you feel confident and comfortable with, and to speed up the whole process of laying floor tiles. If you ever find that you run short of tile spacers though down the line, just remove spacers from tiles that you are sure may be partially dried and fixed into the mortar bed, and that won’t be disturb by your following section of tiles to be laid.

Matt is a proud husband and father of a 2 1/2 year old daughter, with another little one on the way. He and his wife live in a 60 year old home that he was able to fix up over a few years in his “spare time”. With a love for floor tiling and extreme sports, the two don’t necessarily mix, but help to add to his outgoing personality and ability to tackle almost any problem.

It took Matt almost 3 years to perfect his book “A Unique Step-By-Step Guide: Making Floor Tiling Easier”. He wanted to make it as accessible as possible for people of all varying degrees of experience.

For an opportunity to either purchase the book, or receive a Free DVD on floor tiling, go to http://www.SeilingsFloors.com. Click on the FREE DVD,to discover the special promotion he has to offer.